Q: We have three bathrooms, which are in need of remodeling. The tub/shower unit seems to be made of acrylic, has no lines and looks like it is only one piece. I would like to replace it with a newer version with higher walls. Is this possible and if so how? –Kazuko O.
A: You’re correct in assuming that the acrylic tub/shower combination is all one piece. They’re actually installed — or at least brought into the room — during the rough framing stage as the home is first being built, while the walls are still open and there’s lots of access for moving the large units into place. Replacing one can be a challenge during any remodeling project. Here are your options:
If your remodeling project involves opening up framing, then you may have enough room to bring in a new one-piece tub/shower unit. There are a variety of them on the market in different heights and configurations, so you’d want to first shop for the exact unit you’d like, get the dimensions, then see if you’ll be able to figure out a way to get it into the room.
Myth #2 – The only panels worth using is a “one piece” system. While it is true you can buy (and home builders often use) cheap fiberglass one piece shower and tub surrounds, in-home remodeling companies who sell “one piece” acrylic shower and tub panels systems are frequently deluding the general public.
If a one-piece unit won’t work, you can use a two- or three-piece combo, which is designed specifically for these kinds of remodeling situations. It consists of a separate tub along with a shower backsplash unit that’s installed in one or two pieces and joined to the tub. The multiple pieces make these units easier to get into the room. However, you’re left with several joints where the pieces connect, and even through they’re sealed, they always present potential leak sources. As such, they’re not my favorite solution.
If you can’t use a one-piece tub/shower, then I think the best solution (and also more attractive than a two-piece unit) is to use a separate tub and then do the walls in a different material. This could be ceramic tile, a solid surface material such as Corian, cultured marble, or other waterproof materials. These can be installed to any height you want, even all the way to the ceiling.
Q: My metal 4-inch dryer vent pipe goes up to the attic and out the south wall. It lies above the attic insulation. The problem I have is that on a cold day in the winter the water freezes the louvers on the vent exhaust and prevents the wet air from going out. Would placing insulation around the vent pipe help to prevent this from happening? –Bill D.
A: As you know, when your dryer’s in operation, it’s pushing warm, moist air out through the duct pipe as the clothes dry. If that pipe passes through unconditioned space, as yours does, then that moisture can certainly condense inside the pipe and turn first to liquid water, and then, if it’s cold enough, to ice. Wrapping the vent pipe with insulation is a very good idea to keep the pipe warmer and help prevent that condensation process from occurring. You can use a duct insulation wrap sold at any home improvement store, and hold it in place with foil tape (not duct tape).
You also mentioned that water is freezing on the louvers of the vent exhaust. If you have a metal vent, that will be much more prone to freezing, so I’d recommend replacing it with a plastic-louvered dryer vent made specifically for that purpose.
Q: I finally got around to flushing my three water heaters. Everything went fine. I have two electric and one gas heater. The only issue is that I ended up with a lot of air in the tanks, which kept the tank from filling fully. I can release the pressure by opening the closest hot water faucet, which I had opened during the process itself. Is this a normal occurrence or should I have done something different?
One nearby toilet still makes real funny noises when flushed although the air seems to be out of the faucet supply line. –Steven M.
A: The air in the tanks and in the lines is perfectly normal. When the tank is drained, the water is replaced with air, and as it refills with water the air is displaced again. You did exactly the right thing by opening up a faucet near the water heater and allowing the air to escape. It’s also not uncommon for a small amount of air to remain trapped in the lines, but that will quickly go away as water is run through the pipes during your normal daily activities.
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Fiberglass shower enclosures are quick and easy to install and offer continued convenience by being easy to clean and care for. Some enclosures come in a solid piece, where the drain pan and walls are formed as one piece of fiberglass. Others come in several pieces, requiring you to connect the walls with the bottom pan. Although the single-piece versions are faster to install, they may not fit through doors and hallways of older or smaller homes. In those cases, stick with the multiple-piece versions.
1
Measure the size of your shower area. Measure the size of the drain pan as well as the height of the walls. Buy a shower enclosure that fits those measurements.
2
Measure the location of the shower controls and faucet. Transfer those measurements to the correct shower enclosure panel and cut the holes with a hole saw. Most shower hardware requires a 6 inch hole saw for the controls and a 1 inch hole saw for the top spout.
3
Place the shower enclosure in place in your bathroom. If you have separate pieces, spread construction adhesive on the bottom of the pan and set it in place. Drive screws through the pre-drilled holes in the sides into the wall studs, if possible. For a single-piece enclosure, add adhesive to the bottom and put the entire piece in place. Check the single-piece or separate pan with a level and add small wood shims to the bottom, if necessary, before the adhesive dries.
4
Place the side panels in place if you have a multiple-piece enclosure. Your single-piece enclosure sides were put in place at the same times as the drain pan. Drive screws through the pre-drilled holes in the panel rims into the wall studs.
5
Cut water-resistant drywall, often colored blue or green, with a utility knife and install it above the walls of the shower enclosure, covering the screwed-in rims. Screw the drywall into the studs with drywall screws. Paint the drywall.
6
Install the shower head and controls. Many shower heads screw directly onto the pipe. Your shower control handle typically connects to the hot and cold water pipes, then is kept in place by screwing on a faceplate cover.
7
Apply silicone caulk to all edges. This includes where the enclosure walls meet the pan, where the walls meet the drywall and around the shower controls and shower head. Hold the caulk at a 45-degree angle while sliding it rapidly across the joint to create an even bead. Then, wet your finger and slide it along the bead to flatten it and create a finished edge. Allow the caulk to dry before using the shower.
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Based outside Atlanta, Ga., Shala Munroe has been writing and copy editing since 1995. Beginning her career at newspapers such as the 'Marietta Daily Journal' and the 'Atlanta Business Chronicle,' she most recently worked in communications and management for several nonprofit organizations before purchasing a flower shop in 2006. She earned a BA in communications from Jacksonville State University.
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Munroe, Shala. 'How to Install Fiberglass Shower Enclosures.' Home Guides | SF Gate, http://homeguides.sfgate.com/install-fiberglass-shower-enclosures-27611.html. Accessed 22 February 2020.
Munroe, Shala. (n.d.). How to Install Fiberglass Shower Enclosures. Home Guides | SF Gate. Retrieved from http://homeguides.sfgate.com/install-fiberglass-shower-enclosures-27611.html
Munroe, Shala. 'How to Install Fiberglass Shower Enclosures' accessed February 22, 2020. http://homeguides.sfgate.com/install-fiberglass-shower-enclosures-27611.html
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